in a concerted effort to yank myself out of my restless aimlessness i've begun (once again) to research ways to build a window seat in my kitchen.
the easiest method would be to simply purchase stock cabinets from a home store and throw a slab of plywood (and cushions) on top, like this.
however, this method presents two problems:
1) i have an air duct that will need to be extended through the width of the window seat, and working with pre-built cabinets would require me to saw into them. i don't know how this would affect stability or appearance.
2) if this project goes well, i am considering adding on to the window seat so that it would wrap along the adjacent wall into an "L" shape. buying pre-buillt cabinets removes any flexibility i have about "adding on" at a later date.
ooh, i just thought of another problem:
3) it could be difficult to match the style of the pre-built cabinet to my existing kitchen cabinets.
ack! and here's another one:
4) it's probably prohibitively expensive to buy pre-built cabinets.
so there. i think i've just talked myself out of that option.
the other route is build it from scratch, using 2x4s and plywood. this will allow me to build around the air duct, re-use my tall baseboards, add the "L" portion later if i so desire, and save a buttload of money.
however, i've never built anything like this before. plus, i'm not big on precision, and pretty exact measurements would be called for.
still, i think i can do it.
Posted by xta at September 28, 2004 09:59 PM | TrackBackOh, I know you can do it. I'll bet you can do it in a way that would end up looking nicer than it would if you used prefab cabinets, too. You might get to buy some kick-ass new tools, to boot.
Why don't you just go ahead and do the "L" portion at the same time?? That would simplify the under-seat storage plans, wouldn't it?
Posted by: Robdob at September 29, 2004 03:49 PMJust as another idea, if you decide to build them, it might be easier to have them open at the top like a chest. Then you wouldn't have to worry about making sliding doors or drawers.
Posted by: Dallas at September 29, 2004 04:31 PMi was thinking about that under-seat storage thing. maybe putting a piano hinge on the plywood top. something simple like that.
but then i thought, "maybe the first unit should have *no* under-seat storage. it'll just be a box. and if that goes well, then the "L" unit will have storage."
that's what i was thinking. i don't know if it's wise or not.
i'm mostly concerned about building around the air duct, and what that will entail. maybe under-seat storage in that unit would be too tricky, given i have this obstacle in front of me.
I just started researching a very similar project, right down to the air duct I'll need to redirect either under the floor or with an elbow to bring it out of the front of the seat. I too want a flip top for storage and thought about the piano hinge like Christa. In addition to the seat, the wife wants bookcases on either side facing out. I've built built-int bookcases and think I have a decent plan for the seat but would like to know if you built your and if there's any words of advice (or pictures).
Posted by: Larry at December 19, 2004 08:58 PMHi Larry-
I hate to say this, but I haven't even *begun* to work on my window seat! I got distracted by the holidays, I guess.
When I finally begin the project I will absolutely post photos.
Good luck with your project!
Christa
I am in the midst of building window seats, also, but with a kicker ... I am wanting to line them with cedar -- essentially a "box within a box." In theory, the build seems simple, and it will help me justify buying a router. My materials will be 2x4's, cedar, hinges and an oak top and front panel. Sounds easy, right?! Will let you know how it pans out.
Posted by: Tom at January 10, 2005 09:23 AMtackling this same thing in a new nursery, have all tools known to man, but no time. going with prebuilt maple cabinets, two of them, on a 2x6 frame (this is where the floor register will 45 through the toe kick, below the cabinets. depth is only 12 inches on these, so i will kick them into the room by 4 inches of overlap at the window. running wall cabinets on each side with the trim piece 22 1/2 degree to match window seat (remember its 4 inches proud of the new wall cabs.) wall cabs will have 12 inch deep, floor to ceiling bookshelves added, then all painted to match room trim. project will be $800 covering 15 foot wall.
Posted by: Bob at February 3, 2005 02:47 PM