First of all, the plane ride was unbearably long. It was 13 1/2 hours from Chicago, on a 747 that was full -- no empty seats at all. I tried to sleep, but I found it next to impossible (besides, I had to stay up and watch the movies on the flight!) This was definitely the worst part of the whole trip; it felt very claustrophobic, I was surrounded by babies, and the flight was incredibly dehydrating. (Korean Air serves free coctails on the plane -- even free wine with dinner -- but I found that all I wanted to drink was a gallon of water...)

Steve & Betsy, my friends in Seoul who teach English, met me at Kimpo airport, and we took a 'limousine bus' (very comfy) back to their apartment. My first impressions of Seoul were of neon and bad drivers. The city seems entirely composed of neon lights, so it looked amazingly colorful -even oddly beautiful- that night I arrived. Bright blinking Koran words lit up the sky (as well as a few signs I could actually read: Coca-Cola, Hyundai...). And I couldn't help but notice the nutty Korean-style of driving on the freeway. The highway is divided into about 6 lanes each way, but the lines on the street don't seem to mean anything. If a driver spies a space on the road that approximates the width of a car, they use it, making a 6-lane highway up to 8 or 9 cars wide. Very scary! And they change 'lanes' unexpectedly, too. I thought I was going to have a heart-attack...I decided right then and there to never attempt to drive in that town!! (Besides the fact that I can't read the street signs!!)

I also noticed right away that the Koreans love their TV. When I arrived at the airport, there were a few TVs in the waiting area, and up to 20 people were gathered around each one, just staring at the monitors. There was even a TV in the limousine bus! Throughout my visit to Seoul, I compiled a videotape of Korean TV... they broacast some really bizarre stuff (for example, 'hypnotizing' shows, where the host would put volunteers from the audience in a trance and make them do embarrassing things in front of the camera)

Check out this 'Tower of TVs' that was on display at a local museum!!

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