I mentioned the cold... Seoul is very chilly in the winter. Most days topped out at about 20 degrees, although in the evening it was significantly colder. Korean custom calls for you to take off your shoes inside, primarily in 2 instances: in the temples and in the home. I'm not sure if it;s a sign of respect in the temples, or just to keep the dirt out, but the floors in the temple were lined with bamboo walkways to help keep you feet a little warmer as you walk through.

Shoes aren't worn in the homes simply because the source of heat in the apartments is from the floor. Hot pipes line the underside of the floor, and to walk around in shoes pretty much defeats the point. It was a rather pleasant feeling, having the undersides of your feet toasty all the time!

We had 'real' kalbi that night for dinner (I hadn't known that what I had the previous night was 'fake'!). This was more authentic primarily because it was prepared right on our table. There are burners on all the tables, and they pile all the ingredients into it (beef, sprouts, spices). You stir it around, and serve yourself when you deem it done. This was also my second attempt at kimchi. Urgh. It was also my first attempt with chopsticks, which I forced to master during the 2 weeks I was there. I couldn't get much food into my mouth those first few days....

(below is a ticket to enter the temple where my hosts, steve & betsy, are standing in the photo above...)

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