I timed this vacation as I did because it centered around a national holiday, the Lunar New Year (Jan. 31, 1994), and apparently the whole of Asia pretty much takes a week off. On the New Year's Day, we went to the National Cemetery, which is similar to Arlington National Cemetery in our country, but dedicated to those who died in the Korean War. Koreans honor their dead on this day by dressing in vivid ceremonial gowns and having a rousing picnic on the graves of their deceased family members. They spread blankets on the grave sites of their family members, eat, drink soju (a liquor made from distilled sweet potatoes), laugh and play games. It's really quite beautiful.